STEMĬheck that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. SADDLEĬheck your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. HEADSETĪ loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. CRANKSĬheck the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.”ĭoing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed.
SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes:
#2016 TREK STACHE 5 FULL#
New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.
#2016 TREK STACHE 5 FREE#
This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”.
A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. CABLE STRETCHĬable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars. The stranglehold dropout gives you options: 29+, 27.5+ or 29erĪfter the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down.Boost148: wider = stiffer, for unprecedented 29er control.Shorter chainstays give you a spirited, lively ride.Rigid carbon fork for precise steering and light weight.
Ladies and gentlemen, the the 29er has evolved! Key Features The specs are just as legit with Race Face cranks powering Shimano 1 x 10 gearing and a clutch rear derailleur that virtually eliminates chain slap and drops. That 148mm-wide rear end is enhanced by short chainstays that make this 29er rail twists and turns like that's its job. Trek loaded the aluminum frame with all the marks of a fully capable trail bike: G2 trail geometry, E2 tapered head tube, 92mm bottom bracket, dropper-post routing and a Boost 148 rear end. The 29er has grown up from its XC roots with Trek's Stache 5. Big wheels roll over the roots and 3-inch-wide tyres rip through berm. The trail waits in anticipation, the woods are quiet, then WHOOSH! The sound of tyres pierces the silence.
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